YSL, fashion icon and Pied-Noir, died on Sunday, June 1. According to the
New York Times (and multiple other sources), Saint Laurent’s career spanned from 1957 to 2002 and included putting women into traditionally male clothing … i.e. pants, peacoats, trenchcoats, and tuxedo jackets. He was known to inspire artists such as Picasso, Miró and Matisse and to dress women such as Catherine Deneuve, Paloma Picasso, Lauren Bacall, and Marie-Hélène de Rothschild. He became famous in 1958 when he was only 21 when he showed his Trapeze collection for Christian Dior after Dior’s death. After his “rich peasant” collection showed in New York, Saint Laurent said, “The clothes incorporated all my dreams, all my heroines in the novels, the operas, the paintings. It was my heart — everything I love that I gave to this collection.”
Pieds-Noirs (and others) have been busy today
posting their homage to the master de couture online. One person wrote on a forum today, “Condoléances à tous les pieds noirs, dont Yves était de la famille.” Another who remembers his shop in Marseille writes, “il laisse un grand vide dans le coeur de tous les Pieds-Noirs.”
Yves Saint-Laurent was a Pied-Noir, born in Oran on August 1, 1936. His father was a lawyer and insurance broker and his mother had great style. His childhood home was a villa on the Mediterranean, the sea that dominates most Pied-Noir memories. The young Yves disliked sports – except swimming—and took to fashion at a very young age, even designing his mother’s clothes. While his parents wanted him to become a lawyer, he went to Paris at the age of 17 (around 1953, just before the tensions of the war would be felt) to work in theatrical fashion design. Dior quickly recognized his talent and snatched him up.
In September of 1960, the same year he made his last collection for Dior, Saint Laurent was called up for 27 months of military service in Algeria. According to the NYTimes, “He had previously been given deferments because 2,000 jobs depended on his talent.” About three weeks after beginning his compulsory service he was hospitalized for a nervous “collapse.” He was discharged from the army and he entered a private clinic near Paris. He returned to work on his own, having been replaced at Dior by Marc Bohan. Just months before Algerian independence, on January 19, 1962, the first Yves Saint Laurent collection was shown.
At his retirement in January 2002, Saint Laurent said, “Every man needs aesthetic phantoms in order to exist. I have known fear and the terrors of solitude. I have known those fair-weather friends we call tranquilizers and drugs. I have known the prison of depression and the confinement of hospital. But one day, I was able to come through all of that, dazzled yet sober.”
His phantoms, although personal, are shared by many in his Pied-Noir family.
